the mouth must adjustPosted: August 17, 2009
“The wines we now make in Apulia, like those we drank and used for cooking on Naxos and in Tuscany, are grown on a small-holding scale and almost exclusively for the grower’s use. . . .
Appreciation of [these] local wines comes gradually, while drinking, and by accepting their peculiarities. ‘Bisogna farsi la bocca’ is the rule. The mouth must adjust, and on the whole it does this best while eating. (Naxian quarrymen professed to eat only to honour the wine.) One is in fact asked to get over the shock of their uncontrolled diversity, which fluctuates not only with the weather during the year and on the day of the harvest, but according to the wine-maker’s hunches. . . .
The result is that one encounters both wonders and horrors such as are never met with in bottled wine.”
â€”Norman Mommens, “The Sculptor,” writing in Patience Gray’s Honey From a Weed (London: Prospect books, 1986.)